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Thread: Valve Clearance Adjustment

  1. #1
    apriliaforum expert CessnaTPA's Avatar
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    Valve Clearance Adjustment

    I thought I'd share with everyone how I adjusted one of my intake valves. The only specialty tools you would need is the timing pin 020719Y which you can get from AF1 Racing.


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    After taking off the head cover take the crankshaft to top dead center rotating the rear tire in 6th gear (Tip: put it in 6th gear the night before, much easier with engine running) note the position of the cam lobes.(for front cylinder only)
    Then install the timing pin through the camshaft in the opposite side you will be adjusting, the pin pushed in about 2 1/8", I had to rotate the motor a little to find that sweet spot to get the pin to drop in. Yellow arrow pointing at timing pin.

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    I marked the gears with white out so there would be no mistakes reinstalling the cam shaft.

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    Remove the 8 bolts holding the cam cap and carefully lift the cam cap out without disturbing anything.
    View with cam cap removed.

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    The cam shaft lifts easily out.

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    Remove the bowl tappet with a magnet to reveal the timing shim.

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    View of timing shim removed.

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    Bowl tappet and timing shim.

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    Then do the math on what size shim you need and reverse the order to reinstall and be 100% sure you install the camshaft in the same groove.
    The cam cap does need to be pre tightened to 4.90-6.86 Nm in this sequence then to 9.81-12.75 Nm, I also prelubed all the moving parts with motor oil and used Permatex Motoseal on the head cover.
    Last edited by CessnaTPA; 03-15-2011 at 08:32 PM.
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  2. #2
    apriliaforum newb petemoss's Avatar
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    Excellent! glad to see the rest of the process completed.

    for the timing pin tool, is there anything special about its shape on the end, or is it just a long pin? what is the diameter?
    01 Bandit 1200
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  3. #3
    apriliaforum Junkie JetdocX's Avatar
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    Thanks for the great pix, Cessna. I have the timing pin from the PO, but wouldn't a drill bit accomplish the same task????

    Edit: Wow! No silly chain to fool with when removing the cams???? I'm liking this engine a lot. I'll probably doing this this winter for the 12K.
    From parts unknown.

  4. #4
    apriliaforum expert CessnaTPA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by petemoss View Post
    Excellent! glad to see the rest of the process completed.

    for the timing pin tool, is there anything special about its shape on the end, or is it just a long pin? what is the diameter?
    It's about 3/16" but I know it's metric

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    84 Honda XL 100
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    84 Honda XL 200
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    90 Suzuki DR 350(still own)
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  5. #5
    apriliaforum Member
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    Hi

    Any chance of measureing the diameter of the pin with a micrometer?

    Thanks

    Wayne
    In New Zealand

  6. #6
    apriliaforum expert keithc's Avatar
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    Well done for this post. I have just looked for the last very detailed post on gaining acces to the valves and cant find it. And yes I have treid the search function and have also looked back and cant find it anywhere.
    If anyone could find it and post a link I would appriciate it.

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  7. #7
    apriliaforum Junkie DownUnderDorso's Avatar
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    Nice write up !

    At how many miles did you identify that you needed to adjust the valve clearances ? Could you feel (or hear) that the clearances were outside of recommended spec ??

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  8. #8
    apriliaforum expert CessnaTPA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DownUnderDorso View Post
    Nice write up !

    At how many miles did you identify that you needed to adjust the valve clearances ? Could you feel (or hear) that the clearances were outside of recommended spec ??
    I checked the valve clearances at the 625 mile service (641 to be exact) and the results were

    Front Intake Left .003" Right .005
    Exhaust= .007 .008

    Rear cylinder .005 .005
    .007 .006

    Intake needs to be .0043- .0071"
    Exhaust .0063- .0091

    So the front left intake was a thousands of a inch too tight and as the engine wears it could get worse. After the new shim it's .005", the bike sounds and rides the same. Could I of got away without doing it? Probably, but I didn't want to take the chance. Call me crazy but I wanted to tear it all apart and see what was inside. I get a satisfaction out of doing things myself, not to mention all the $$ I saved
    84 Honda XL 100
    87 Suzuki SP 125
    84 Honda XL 200
    89 Honda CR 250
    90 Suzuki DR 350(still own)
    09 Shiver
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  9. #9
    apriliaforum Member Guyf's Avatar
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    Very nice and useful write up, thanks!

  10. #10
    apriliaforum expert Strada_Stu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by keithc View Post
    I have just looked for the last very detailed post on gaining acces to the valves and cant find it.
    If anyone could find it and post a link I would appriciate it.

    Keith C
    http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...alve+clearance

  11. #11
    Max Lean Angle / Administrator Ed / AF1 Racing's Avatar
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    it needs to be stressed again that you only take ONE camshaft out at a time.

    Being a 90 degree engine, the cylinder you are not working on is under valve spring tension.....pull the cams, and the crank will roll, and you loose your timing. Setting the timing from scratch on these engines is a very complicated project, and reruires several more special tools. DO NOT LOOSE THE TIMING.

    One cam/cylinder at a time, and lock the other cam in that cylinder while service the one cam.

  12. #12
    apriliaforum expert keithc's Avatar
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    Thanks mate

    Keith C
    1982 GL1100 Goldwing
    1988 GL1500 Goldwing trike
    2006 Suzuki Vstrom 1000GT
    2009 Dorsoduro
    2013 Caponord
    https://www.fuelly.com/driver/mzride...ord?fu=6456444

  13. #13
    apriliaforum Junkie iancp5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ed / AF1 Racing View Post
    it needs to be stressed again that you only take ONE camshaft out at a time.

    Being a 90 degree engine, the cylinder you are not working on is under valve spring tension.....pull the cams, and the crank will roll, and you loose your timing. Setting the timing from scratch on these engines is a very complicated project, and reruires several more special tools. DO NOT LOOSE THE TIMING.

    One cam/cylinder at a time, and lock the other cam in that cylinder while service the one cam.
    You can't lock the crank easily then? Some KTM dirtbikes had a bolt with a thick washer on the crankcase. You removed the washer and screwed it in when the crank was lined up and it located in a hole in the crankshaft thus locking it. Good idea I thought. Of course that was on a bike that didn't need it for valve clearance adjusting!

  14. #14
    apriliaforum expert CessnaTPA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vfr_nz View Post
    Hi

    Any chance of measureing the diameter of the pin with a micrometer?

    Thanks

    Wayne
    In New Zealand
    The diameter is 4MM and 100MM long.
    84 Honda XL 100
    87 Suzuki SP 125
    84 Honda XL 200
    89 Honda CR 250
    90 Suzuki DR 350(still own)
    09 Shiver
    10 Ducati Multistrada
    15 KTM Superduke 1290

  15. #15
    apriliaforum expert maddad's Avatar
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    all of what ED said,done all of my in-line 4s,easy re timing on the old kwaks,this ones going to the shop the $ are nothing compared to spanner throwing and inevitable trailering to the shop,as for the engine wearing later down the track it may go one way or the other,talked to a sevice guy here a little while ago and a shiver at 20,000ks needed no adjustment.

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