On another note:
I want to try an EVO-style conversion first, just for fun until I get the foam-filter type shipped from MWR. And compare the two solutions!
I have just been to my storage and pulled out TWO spare airboxes from my ever growing Falco spare parts junkyard. I believe both came from Milles, not sure though. I totally forgot that I have two of them (one of which has a damaged base, of no importance for this conversion).
But: THEY ARE DIFFERENT!
- One lid is from an earlier Mille I believe (top lid has a production stamp from 1999, Aprilia DIS N° 101669)
- The other one was made in 2002, Aprilia DIS N° 104758, and has slightly different shape.
Old (left) vs newer (right) - click to enlarge
Weirdly enough, both bases are almost exactly the same (both carry DIS parts N° 101670, casting stamp 1999 and 2002 respectively), hence mounting points should fit.
Questions, to make an EVO-style tonneau-filter holder out of one of my spare lid(s):
- Which airbox lid should I cut up with a Dremel?
Will the newer style hold an OEM-sized Falco Filter (K&N), or was the filter style changed for RSV RP models (2001-2003 EU specs)?
I have a Y2k Falco, hence I believe it has the earlier style lid (can't check, since it's raining and Falco stored miles away). It definetely has the large rubber intake from the factory. I guess I'll be safer to cut up the early Mille style - what do others here recommend?
PS: Oh, btw - the older airbox also still has the larger rubber air intake nozzle attached to it - parts N° 101672, similar to what AF1 are selling - I just can't match the DIS part N°??? (anyone in the know or in need? )
So which one is the Falco one?
I took the older one from 1999, no idea which bike it came off (must be Mille ME).... I'd never cut-up anything OEM off my Falco!
Dear me, that cutting up is a really dirty job - it stinks, bits are flying, the lot...! Almost ruined my cheapo Chinese Dremel clone...
With all the plasticky bits dangling about on the edges of the hacksaw-lid, I'm not sure if this selfmade EVO-style is a good idea.
That full cover foam layer type mod looks a better & safer filter design by the minute!
i like the renegade ones - period
I have used both evo and rene and i just prefer it.... but I do think it helps having a full renegade system
also, all this pissing about - just buy and fit
ah.....
hmmmm
bugger - he is right !
The challenge is to make it yourself
fark me, archimedes is living next door to the yam yams.....
Excellent, thanks!
According to your pics, I did indeed have a spare that came off a Falco - and that's the one I hacksawed. The other one is Mille.
I cut up the Falco lid, did fit it with a temporary seal (water pipe insulation foam).
Tomorrow I'll see how it works out Evo-style (OEM filter held in place by the front section of the cut-out lid).
I've also ordered the MWR filter, which I will keep in place with the lid - for that, I'll hacksaw it a little more.
But I posted this in the wrong thread originally, so I'm 'adding' it here... if this breaks some forum rule or something, go easy on the n00b and let me know what to do to fix it.
Lots of good options...and not enough patience.
First I was going to do the Evo Kit since I got it cheap with a bunch of other parts, but I wasn't sold on the sealing capabilities of the gasket, and couldn't find a quick n' dirty way to hold the air filter in place with confidence. Then I bought a used plate to install the ITG filter, but didn't have the patience to screw around trying to mod the bottom of the airbox to make it seal well, then concoct a way to seat the filter (which I never bought). So then I ordered the trunk seal rubber to put around the airbox bottom, but still didn't have a solution to hold down the air filter (a few ideas, but again no patience) and I balked every time I considered removing the sound-deadening foam from the underside of the tank. I finally ended up with this:
A MWR filter combined with the Evo gasket. The filter completely protects the intakes so I don't have to worry about a less than perfect seal from the Evo gasket, so I get the benefit of the open Evo airbox with protection of the Rene/Hooked/ITG setup, all combined with relatively easy, bolt-on installation. Perfect for a lazy slob like me who wanted a bit more mid-range that a freer-breathing airbox provides. Since the MWR filter doesn't come with any installation instructions I had to sort of wing it (with go_modem_go's assistance ), and while I'm not thrilled with the current filter cage tie-down solution, it's only temporary until I can make a more permanent and accessible clamp or hook system. I've seen the retainer 'ring' with the cage tangs for the DT1 filter and that's the type of setup I'm going for eventually. I didn't anticipate needing to create a way to keep the cage in place, and honestly MWR could put at least minimal effort into providing information to its potential customers (EVERYBODY has online manuals, instructions, or data sheets! Come on! ) hence my current solution. I think the DT1 retainer ring is something MWR would be smart to...erm... take inspiration from In the meantime I just need to make some tangs that will bolt in place of the current 14g wires. Of course, if I get lazy again (and I will ) I'll probably just try to find a place to buy one of the DT1 rings here in the states...
I may also change out the Evo gasket for the trunk seal at some point, but for now I'm happy enough with this. So...here it is. This weekend is supposed to be high 60's and sunny so I'll be testing PC III maps on the new setup.
WOW...i really need to get my headaround this!!
I'd love to ask for someone to explain this too me being a novice but i'd be lost in the techno speak!! Guess i'll have to show up at a Ridersite meet and then someone can try and make me understand what this is all about...hats off to you all looks like interesting stuff!
....don't laugh but which way does the air go, is it from the air filter hole into the 'trumpets'?? Just trying to get my head round the basics!
Last edited by Furygan Man; 02-04-2011 at 08:25 PM.
In simplest terms the motor is an air pump - the more air you can pump through it the more power it will make. Opening the airbox (cut, perforate, etc., or even remove) lets more air in, and more open exhausts let more air out. More air flows through the entire system making more power. Everything in between is there to ensure the air is "working" as it should (that's ignoring the transmission, which transfers the power the air is creating from the motor to the wheels).
The best air for a motor is clean and cold, and in some cases compressed. Cold because it's dense (more "air" in the same space as hotter air), clean so it doesn't ruin the motor's internals, and compressed for the same reason as "cold" but more-so (compressed really only applies here to the "ram air" debate, otherwise it's a non-issue to the Falco. Unless you're going to turbo- or supercharge it...hmmmm - remember, more air = more power).
So all of these airbox options are trying to address these same issues - allow more air in, keep it as cold as possible (the Rene/Hooked systems don't really address this since they don't specifically isolate the intakes from the hot air rising from the motor, but that's another debate...), and keep it clean.
Of course there's a lot more to it than that, but that's the barebones basics of what all this airbox stuff is about.
Oh, and the simple, maddening joy of modding...
Basically, yes. It literally passes through the filter, which cleans it before heading into the intakes ("trumpets" or "velocity stacks") in the bottom of the airbox. Then thru the intake valves, into the combustion chamber, then out the exhaust valves, then out the exhaust. It's a simple concept wrapped in some complex science, but what isn't?
Last edited by Mfed; 02-04-2011 at 08:52 PM.