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Thread: Swing Arm, Linkage and ......

  1. #1
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    Swing Arm, Linkage and ......

    I thought it might be the proper time to check all those needle bearings in the swing arm,
    linkage and connections. Never done it on this bike.
    As I had the air-box removed as well as both exhausts and the rear wheel,
    removing the bolt that holds two connectors with a linkage was easy.

    Next was removal of the bottom shock screw. No nut here, just the screw.
    Swing arm bolt was pretty easy. I used a punch and hammer to remove the
    famous-need-special-tool nut on the left side.
    Few determined hammer adjustments and nut was off.
    Loosened the bushing with the 8mm allen wrench and removed the bolt on the
    right side with the 22mm socket.
    No need to remove this bushing on the left side, I just wanted to check things.



    Swing arm went out easy, two plastic washers came out on the floor.
    They go on the outside of the arms next to the left and right side of the alum frame.



    Next was removal of the linkage or shock shackle. Note the orientation of the linkage, mark it.



    Pretty much all bearings looked a-OK, seals in very good shape.
    Cleaned as much as possible of the old grease and rubbed in some good stuff, hi-temp, waterproof grease.





    Both bushings were perfect, some cleaning with ScotchPad where seal sits.



    Next was removal of “dog-bones” or connectors. First remove left one, screw only,
    following with the right one that has the nut. I’ve managed to damage the nut, so had to replace it.



    Bearings and seals here were just super. More new grease.



    Blue stuff beats nail polish….



    Very happy with the condition of the bearings, as they are over $10 each x 11 bearings total.
    I did notice that the grease was sweating or dripping if you wish, most likely due to the temp.
    This is why I opted for the hi-temp grease of choice (RedLine CV2)
    I just forgot to note the bearing sizes on the linkage. Oh well….
    I’ll do that when I check the bearings on my brothers bike.
    Last edited by stisma; 02-16-2013 at 12:35 AM.

  2. #2
    apriliaforum Member koukosnest's Avatar
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    Good job man,i have to do the same thing one day...
    All i want from my birthday is another birthday!

  3. #3
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    Nice write up and clear pictures! Can I suggest adding some torque specs to make this the Peg-reference for a long time to come. The bearing are a common size with one exception. The part number has an extra notation indicating "full compliment"; meaning that there is no cage but instead full of rollers. This is what makes exact replacement hard to find.

    Question: Do you have any noticeable play in the bearing where the rocker arm attached to the lower frame crossmember? Both mine and my brothers seem to have some (noticed when the bike os on the center stand). I am wondering if this is normal or should I replace these bearings.
    Last edited by andysrage; 02-17-2013 at 05:04 PM.
    Andy
    2000 Pegaso Cube
    2016 CRF1000L Africa Twin

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by andysrage View Post
    ...
    Question: Do you have any noticeable play in the bearing where the rocker arm attached to the lower frame crossmember? ...
    Well ... both of our bikes also have that very same play.... one of the reasons I wanted to inspect the bearings,........so I'm guessing it's OK.

  5. #5
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    Here is some more info on the topic.
    Hopefully someone finds use of it.....






  6. #6
    apriliaforum Member '74Stratos's Avatar
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    Nice work on the write up! This will help many potential do-it-yourselfers take the plunge. All it takes is time to disassemble, patience to clean the parts, and a clear understanding of the reassembly. Last problem solved.

  7. #7
    apriliaforum prov-nov YIOTTA's Avatar
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    Can anyone verify that a little play is expected in the swingarm/shock linkage (not sure exactly where the play is)? With my bike on the center stand, I also noticed some unexpected slop as I can feel free play by pulling the rear wheel straight up.

    Also, what kind of mileage before a linkage rebuild for bikes that don't see a lot of bad conditions (no road salt, sea spray, mud)? I've got 27K miles on mine.
    2000.5 Falco, Black, 27K miles: RSC cans, chipped/derestricted, carbon fiber everything, Aprilia saddlebags, wire mod. Next: .40 Oil Jet and re-bleed clutch.
    Problems: hard to find neutral from a stop; warped plastic fuel tank leak (o-ring) and faulty side stand switch (bypassed)

    2000 Pegaso, Silver, 47,000 miles. Staintune exhaust, factory side bags, Givi windscreen and v45 trunk.
    FH008EE Regulator/Rectifier (cbr600 with Eastern Beaver/metripack wiring kit). Beru plug cap mod, DR8EIX Iridium spark plug, Motobatt battery
    Problems: Speedometer cable,. coolant reservoir filling not returning (no vacuum, no coolant in oil, no oil in coolant, no white smoke), Fuel tank well nut broke/caused ieak (fixed with nylon plastic welder)

  8. #8
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    Some up-down play is expected and it comes from the linkage.
    Very little movement in the linkage, but feels a lot at the rear of the swing arm.
    However there should be no side movement, left-right. from what I can see.

    Difficult to say of the PM (lube) cycle in the different conditions.....
    Needle bearings in the swing arm, linkage and dog bones hold very little grease,
    so even the smallest loss will create fast wear.
    Say...every 3-5k miles or every couple of years.
    And it is a super easy job.

  9. #9
    apriliaforum prov-nov YIOTTA's Avatar
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    Whoa...I better get that done before riding season then. Hope it's not too late those needles are expensive.
    2000.5 Falco, Black, 27K miles: RSC cans, chipped/derestricted, carbon fiber everything, Aprilia saddlebags, wire mod. Next: .40 Oil Jet and re-bleed clutch.
    Problems: hard to find neutral from a stop; warped plastic fuel tank leak (o-ring) and faulty side stand switch (bypassed)

    2000 Pegaso, Silver, 47,000 miles. Staintune exhaust, factory side bags, Givi windscreen and v45 trunk.
    FH008EE Regulator/Rectifier (cbr600 with Eastern Beaver/metripack wiring kit). Beru plug cap mod, DR8EIX Iridium spark plug, Motobatt battery
    Problems: Speedometer cable,. coolant reservoir filling not returning (no vacuum, no coolant in oil, no oil in coolant, no white smoke), Fuel tank well nut broke/caused ieak (fixed with nylon plastic welder)

  10. #10
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    PS. Every 3-5k PM is check and inspect type maintenance, not RR thing....sorry to confuse.

    But in your case at 27k miles........ you better jump on it.
    Not every dry needle brg is for replacement..... if not damaged and sound,
    just pack it good with the proper grease.

    And the current prices for possibly needed parts are super.....
    Check AF1 as well as ......

    http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/...-assembly.html

    http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/...-assembly.html

    Not affiliated, just found good $ and service.

  11. #11
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    Thanks a lot for a important information. Last summer i had changed seals in the swing arm and fork rods, but unfortunatly forgot put on (wrote) sizes of bearings (it needs changing soon). You helped me!
    Last edited by dmitriyrotax; 03-27-2013 at 01:43 PM.

  12. #12
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    Swing Arm:
    BRG's 8110067 4 req
    Seals 8120240 4 req (yellow spongy looking) these you will need to replace as they go bad easily

    The other PN's you can find on the previous pots.

    While at it, check the rear wheel BRG's including sprocket carrier BRG.

    I apply more grease even on the new BRG's, needle and ball.
    But that is just me....not a recommendation.

    And remember...all this work is to be fun!!!

  13. #13
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    Just checked mine out, quite a lot of play in the bearing connected from linkage to shock (up and down). Looks like its time to get in there and check it out!

  14. #14
    apriliaforum prov-nov YIOTTA's Avatar
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    OK...my new seals came in so I put the swinger back in yesterday. Between Stisma's great post (Great Job!), the service manual and IPB, all went well, EXCEPT ACTUALLY GETTING THE PIVOT BOLT BACK IN PLACE. That took me almost 2 hours of fiddling as I could not keep the black plastic spacer/bushings in place.

    So, the only step missing was critical for me. What is the secret to keeping the plastic spacers in place while aligning both sides?

    I did not have a second set of hands and that certainly would have made life easier .

    What eventually worked for me was to put a little grease on the black spacer which uses hydraulic lock or whatever you physics guys call it to hold the spacer somewhat. Then, I suspended the swinger from the bike frame with a heavy duty black rubber bunji cord. Then, I carefully aligned the swingarm pivots above their counterparts on the engine/frame and then nudged it into place with a plastic hammer. Even then, it took a few tries to get it right.

    Sorry, no pics as I was alone and my hands were all covered in dirty grease...I knew I should have taken the front sprocket off and cleaned real well behind there.

    Everything is torqued except that guffy nut. Just used the hammer/punch routine to put it back on nice and snug.

    Anyone have another way? Is a second person considered 'necessary' for putting swingers back on?
    Last edited by YIOTTA; 05-19-2013 at 07:50 AM. Reason: I originally typed 'gunny nut' not 'guffy nut'
    2000.5 Falco, Black, 27K miles: RSC cans, chipped/derestricted, carbon fiber everything, Aprilia saddlebags, wire mod. Next: .40 Oil Jet and re-bleed clutch.
    Problems: hard to find neutral from a stop; warped plastic fuel tank leak (o-ring) and faulty side stand switch (bypassed)

    2000 Pegaso, Silver, 47,000 miles. Staintune exhaust, factory side bags, Givi windscreen and v45 trunk.
    FH008EE Regulator/Rectifier (cbr600 with Eastern Beaver/metripack wiring kit). Beru plug cap mod, DR8EIX Iridium spark plug, Motobatt battery
    Problems: Speedometer cable,. coolant reservoir filling not returning (no vacuum, no coolant in oil, no oil in coolant, no white smoke), Fuel tank well nut broke/caused ieak (fixed with nylon plastic welder)

  15. #15
    apriliaforum prov-nov YIOTTA's Avatar
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    Oh, for what it's worth, I don't believe mine had ever been serviced before and at 27K miles the bearings we resting in somewhat rusty goo. But I cleaned them up good with diluted Simple Green, dried everything off with shop towels and compressed air and used red high temp grease on all.

    Careful: Only the swinger bearings and the largest linkage bearings are caged. The other linkage bearings are loose needles...you have been warned. I had to search a while for one I dropped on the garage floor.

    Considering their home for the past 13 years, I found all the needles in fine shape as well...all uniform and no pitting. So, the only parts I needed were the dust seals as the drive side one was dry rotted and disintegrated upon removal and the rear brake pivot/chain roller bolt. I broke that as I mis-read the docs and tried to torque it to twice it's torque spec...STUPID! From the service manual, page 7-31 7.1.24 REMOVING THE CHAIN ROLLERS AND THE
    CHAIN SHOE: Screw/nut (5-6) driving torque: 25 Nm (2.5 kgm).
    2000.5 Falco, Black, 27K miles: RSC cans, chipped/derestricted, carbon fiber everything, Aprilia saddlebags, wire mod. Next: .40 Oil Jet and re-bleed clutch.
    Problems: hard to find neutral from a stop; warped plastic fuel tank leak (o-ring) and faulty side stand switch (bypassed)

    2000 Pegaso, Silver, 47,000 miles. Staintune exhaust, factory side bags, Givi windscreen and v45 trunk.
    FH008EE Regulator/Rectifier (cbr600 with Eastern Beaver/metripack wiring kit). Beru plug cap mod, DR8EIX Iridium spark plug, Motobatt battery
    Problems: Speedometer cable,. coolant reservoir filling not returning (no vacuum, no coolant in oil, no oil in coolant, no white smoke), Fuel tank well nut broke/caused ieak (fixed with nylon plastic welder)

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