Battery relocation on a GEN2

I've seen the threads on the few people who have moved their battery on their Gen1s, building new trays and so on (as long as they didn't have ABS). The storage compartment under seat is a lot bigger on the Gen2.

I'm going to move my battery under my seat. SLA batteries can be used in any position I believe. Looks like if I just dremel off the storage bay divider wall the battery will lay flat right inside the box there (EDIT - No Dremeling needed) - no modification needed other than running a power wire. Pretty sure it will fit in there like it is made for it (IT DOES).

This will give me all sorts of room up front for ballasts, relays, etc inside the battery box. I'll be back with pics in the next couple days!

That sounds very interesting can you send photos etc,.once completed.

Well, I was wrong NO dremeling required. She just slides right in there, and preserves the front little storage area, divider wall in place.







I did not leave the battery there yet, going to do some more research to make sure there is not a vent hole on the Yuasa, but I'm pretty sure it is a SLA battery, correct?

If it is safe to run like that, this is going to be way too easy. If you pull out the terminal block near the stock battery location where the battery cables run to - just slide off the rubber boot and there is a bolt there for removing the stock cable, and then just re-attach your own positive wire from battery and ground the battery back in the under-seat area.

Follow-up, it is a Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) Battery and should therefore be good to go any position. I'm thinking I'll be done with this project tomorrow night after work, along with 55 watt HID install. It was a huge bee-otch to find a place to mount the reliable full-size ballasts, hence my head scratching towards this project. First I put the ballasts under the seat but then discovered that the high-voltage wires to the bulbs do NOT like to be lengthened.

Wont you need some special ends \ connectors for the other end of the battery cables ? Have you researched this yet ?

HIGHLANDER said:

Wont you need some special ends \ connectors for the other end of the battery cables ? Have you researched this yet ?

Click to expand...

What gauge wire would you be running all the way back to the passenger seat to ensure efficient drive to the starter and such? 8 gauge? 6 gauge?

More importantly, there is a 50 amp main fuse that currently sits very close to the battery, which is simply best safety practice. That new run of wires to the aft end of the bike will have no fuse to protect it, and so a short anywhere in that segment might result, at best, in just the loss of the bike. At a minimum I would think you would want to either move the 50 amp fuse to the new battery location, or add an additional 50 amp fuse back there.

YMMV.

HIGHLANDER said:

Wont you need some special ends \ connectors for the other end of the battery cables ? Have you researched this yet ?

Click to expand...

Special connectors? No, not really. Pretty standard stuff. Moving a battery 3 feet away isn't too big a deal.

NightShine said:

HIGHLANDER said:

Wont you need some special ends \ connectors for the other end of the battery cables ? Have you researched this yet ?

Click to expand...

What gauge wire would you be running all the way back to the passenger seat to ensure efficient drive to the starter and such? 8 gauge? 6 gauge?

More importantly, there is a 50 amp main fuse that currently sits very close to the battery, which is simply best safety practice. That new run of wires to the aft end of the bike will have no fuse to protect it, and so a short anywhere in that segment might result, at best, in just the loss of the bike. At a minimum I would think you would want to either move the 50 amp fuse to the new battery location, or add an additional 50 amp fuse back there.

YMMV.

Click to expand...

I'll be using 6 gauge wire which will be more than sufficient for a 4 foot run carrying 50amp MAX. A 50amp main fuse will be moved to the same compartment as the battery in case there is a short along the wire run.

carlson_mn said:

HIGHLANDER said:

Wont you need some special ends \ connectors for the other end of the battery cables ? Have you researched this yet ?

Click to expand...

Special connectors? No, not really. Pretty standard stuff. Moving a battery 3 feet away isn't too big a deal.

NightShine said:

HIGHLANDER said:

Wont you need some special ends \ connectors for the other end of the battery cables ? Have you researched this yet ?

Click to expand...

What gauge wire would you be running all the way back to the passenger seat to ensure efficient drive to the starter and such? 8 gauge? 6 gauge?

More importantly, there is a 50 amp main fuse that currently sits very close to the battery, which is simply best safety practice. That new run of wires to the aft end of the bike will have no fuse to protect it, and so a short anywhere in that segment might result, at best, in just the loss of the bike. At a minimum I would think you would want to either move the 50 amp fuse to the new battery location, or add an additional 50 amp fuse back there.

YMMV.

Click to expand...

I'll be using 6 gauge wire which will be more than sufficient for a 4 foot run carrying 50amp MAX. A 50amp main fuse will be moved to the same compartment as the battery in case there is a short along the wire run.

Click to expand...

Might be interesting to try with one of the Shorai lithium batteries. They are more compact, much lighter, deliver LOTS of cranking power, high capacity and contain no liquids so they can be mounted in any position - according to their website.

With any battery, I would make sure you have lots of padding around the unit to prevent chafing of the battery case. A hole or leak in a lead acid battery would do an awful lot of damage!! If using any sort of lead acid battery, I would want to check with the manufacturer to make SURE they recommend that it can be used in other than an upright orientation!!

Ross

Edit - from the Yuasa website

FAQ's

Can an AGM battery be installed in any position?

In most applications, batteries are installed in an upright position, but in some situations there is a need to tilt them (sometimes at very extreme angles) or lay them completely flat on their backs.

Yuasa typically supplies AGM batteries with separate acid packs that you must fill (and charge) yourself. We do not recommend that this type of battery be installed on it's side, or even an extreme angle, due to possible leakage occuring.

Fortunately, Yuasa offers many AGM batteries as "Factory Activated". Generally this type of battery is safe to install in almost any direction. If there is any question of a particular vehicle/battery/installation please contact us for our specific recommendation before attempting to use battery.

Thanks Ross good info. And yes, in case anyone is wondering, the FJR's battery is 'factory activated.' https://www.yuasabatteries.com/vehicle_search.php?action=showListing

I'd consider moving the starter relay as well, just to minimize the length of the high-current cables. And you'll need a big ground to the engine block, not just to the frame.

wfooshee said:

I'd consider moving the starter relay as well, just to minimize the length of the high-current cables. And you'll need a big ground to the engine block, not just to the frame.

Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll look into moving the starter relay if it will fit. The stock ground cable to the engine is quite long so I will probably re-use that and just attach it further back on the engine so it fits. The stock cable must be close to 3' in length.

Good idea!

More centralized mass to. The battery in my CBR250R is mounted under the seat, and lays down at about 60 degree angle. So I'm guessing so long as the battery is spec'd for it, it's no problem at all. Reminds me, I've got to find Warchilds thread for the HID group buy. The stator in this lil bike isn't that big, and saving some watts, getting more light (stock light is VERY good though) will leave more juice for some grips/heated liner.

Interesting. I am looking forward to see how this all works out. If I were to do it, I would most definitely get one of those new Shorai batteries. This would be a prime example of being able to take advantage of their space savings.

I'm assuming you have seen photos of it done on a Gen I:

Bungie said:

Good idea!

More centralized mass to. The battery in my CBR250R is mounted under the seat, and lays down at about 60 degree angle. So I'm guessing so long as the battery is spec'd for it, it's no problem at all. Reminds me, I've got to find Warchilds thread for the HID group buy. The stator in this lil bike isn't that big, and saving some watts, getting more light (stock light is VERY good though) will leave more juice for some grips/heated liner.

Click to expand...

Yes, the stock lighting is awesome, and HID's just expand on the greatness of the awesome headlight housings the FJR has. I had HIDs on my 04 and once you go that way you can't live with the halogens again. I picked up a 55 watt kit this time, dual H/L. Man have they made those things a lot smaller from 3 years ago!

And thanks Skooter I did also see the pics of that streetfighter project. And yes I'll let you know how it goes. Honestly I'll probably just leave the starter relay up front to simplify my options if I decide to go back to the stock configuration. A 3.5' foot run of large gauge wire should be no issue with a 25amp starter. Hell right now the current passes through the 3 foot stock ground wire already.

carlson_mn said:

I had HIDs on my 04 and once you go that way you can't live with the halogens again. I picked up a 55 watt kit this time, dual H/L. Man have they made those things a lot smaller from 3 years ago!

Click to expand...

I went back to stock Halogen after trying HID. While it's different, I am not so convinced it's 'better'. At least not for me. Nor am I convinced of any watt savings. What few people who have actually measured and reported results around here have not shown much watt savings if any.

Now, HID aux lights with their reflector designed for an HID bulb, well, they are the dog's danglies! Forget about those silly LED lights.

Yes, I can't imagine the LED lights being competitive with HID auxillary lighting, until I witness it in person I imagine. Not sure why one would go with the LED's over HID unless they were desperate to save 50 watts.

Here are the pics of the rough install. The battery and power cables are installed and I am happy with their positions and runs. I hooked up the HID kit, a 55 watt kit from DDM, and everything fired up. I maintained the location of the stock main fuse, and also added an AGU style fuse inside the new battery box - these fuses are cheap and easy to find anywhere ( best buy, walmart). The wires I used have very thick shielding but I added heat shielding where the wire passes through the engine and frame area. I grounded the battery 2 feet below it on one of the frame/engine mount bolts near the rear brake pedal. I cut off the stock Positive battery lead and will clean up the battery box as I get more time. There is plenty of room for the full-size HID ballasts with lots of room to spare for anything else I add later.

So if anyone wants to do this, all you need is about 7 feet of cable total, your fuse of choice and 4 eyelet post connections.

Oh, and the stock rubber harness even goes around the battery and holds it down when you're all done connecting it.

Main wire run



Grounding wire



Battery box - i.e. 100% stock underseat compartment





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qU5OLcw-hc4

I might be a worrier, but I would require something substantial over the positive post as an insulator, or some good insulation over the subframe alongside the positive post. What may seem impossible can much too easily become possible in an impact. And the last thing you want is that battery arc welding under your ass and right above the fuel tank vent as it drops a puddle in a crash.

The stock configuration provides a much more secure and much better insulated environment for the battery. Perhaps something like a Tupperware container cut open and double-stick over the battery end? The pictures make me scream out for more substantial insulation.

If you don't want to enhance the positive post insulation scheme, at least add a second fusible link to the negative lead so that it will blow if the positive post touches the frame.

Those are all good points and I will be expanding its protection. The post is actually recessed from the edge of the battery so it's protected from hitting anywhere on the frame, especially strapped down the way it is with the factory rubber strap. Having said that, I later fitted the factory lead cover on it and will probably build a plastic corner that encompasses the whole area.

And if I'm in a crash that sends the battery flying, I'm sure I'm already off the bike too